Saturday, February 28, 2009

A Special Place for Puja

Some places really are special.

They are the places that touch the heart and rejuvenate the soul. They tend to be surrounded by nature and offer extraordinary views (which are ideally absorbed from a hammock). They are blessed with some thing live, some presence. I felt it in Camarat, in the middle of the woods on top of a mountain overlooking the Med. And I recognize it here.

Something magical lingers at La Forêt de Lumière. The mornings are drenched with dew and bird calls. Sunset shares its colors and coolness with thirsty green plants and trees. Every day new flowers wake up to the world, new leaves emerge to brave the cows and the heat. And we, helpless humans, idle in awe as nature sets to work.

Engulfed in the hammock on the second floor balcony, I watch the sun burn its decline to set behind an endless horizon of trees. The breeze carries smells of vegetation, and I imagine the taste of the ripening fruits and vegetables incubating in the small garden. I smile at the warm colors and natural feel of the buildings, each emanating life. The lady cleans the kitchen. The old man retreats to his house. The tenant writes philosophy in a thatch hut of leaves and brick. And the steward surveys his work, faithful dog by his side.

This is life in the forest. Fridays are particularly magical, as the fading afternoon demands a puja—a small ceremony to the gods. A poet would describe it better than I ever could; or, perhaps, a Hindu. Regardless, I silently soaked in the blessings as workers and boss, guests and residents adorned small statues with flowers and powder and words of love. Armed with twisting spirals of incense smoke, they thanked higher beings for the forest, for their loved ones, for life. What a beautiful ceremony to witness:




Monday, February 23, 2009

I <3 Adventure

Golden sun baked golden skin. Sand clung to our arms and legs. We sat in silence, watching salt-tipped waves collapse on the shoreline. It was the lingering moments of a quiet afternoon for me; it was the dwindling moments of a vacation for him.

“Have you ever walked to Pondi?”

“Walked?” I scoffed. “It’s too far.”

“8km.”

Oh. “That is walkable.”

“I wonder how long it would take.”

I looked at him with mischief in my eyes. “Want to find out?”

He smiled.

And thus Raphael and I started our journey from Auroville’s Quiet beach. We carried our flip-flops over the sand, dodging bits of trash and torn plastic. It smelled of sea, of salt, of dead fish. We spoke of Auroville and the ashram and philosophy. We wondered about youth and age and business and life. We passed a half hour wading in the water.

Over the first dune we discovered a cement fisherman’s village just feet from the bay. In the tumultuous shallows I saw something I’d never seen before: Indian women swimming in saris, next to brothers or boyfriends or friends. They invited us to come play.

I wobbled my head and smiled, but didn’t go.

Over the next dune we realized the walk along the beach would be difficult, so we cut towards the highway, cutting through a larger village. There was a kolam on the sidewalk Raphael loved, and he insisted on stopping to take a picture—with the woman’s permission, of course. The women of the house gathered to watch him and his camera, and with no shared language, I spoke with them as best as I could. Before long we are all laughing hysterically, each woman for a different reason. Perfect. Then they invited us in for tea.

I wobbled my head and smiled, but we moved on.

The cement streets of the village faded to dirt until we were wading through brush paths lined by collapsing shanties. Around one, miraculously, there were men gathered for tea.

“You want a chai?” Raphael asked.

“Of course!”

We took tea while the children gathered around to practice English. “Hi!” “How are you!” “What’s your name!” Words they shout but don’t understand. After we finished our tiny cups, an old man invited us in Tamil to sit with him.

I wobbled my head and smiled, but we had a party to get to.

The dirt path transformed again to cement, and we found ourselves in the houses behind the highway. On one of the back doorsteps sat four women sewing flowers, and I paused to admire their work. I smelled the strings of tiny buds and smiled, and we spoke without sharing a single common word. As I turned to leave, one hollered and quickly laced a string through my tangled knot of golden curls.

I wobbled my head and smiled, and we continued on our way.

On the highway there was a rickshaw waiting. But Raphael and I looked at each other and smiled. We were at the bus stand. For 3 rupees, we took an overcrowded and stomach-turning trip to the heart of Pondi, where we dismounted to walk through the stifling market to the quiet apartment of Guy and Françoise.

It was their last night and Guy’s birthday, and guests were arriving in 10 minutes. Champagne and cake awaited. Then with fancy clothes and flowers in my hair, I found myself wobbling my head and smiling with French diplomats and ashram teachers.

This time I didn’t walk away.

The perfect passage of lingering, dwindling moments.




Monday, February 16, 2009

Gingee

There is so much I still haven’t seen. Françoise, despite being restricted to her wheelchair, has seen it all and continues to. Today I joined her, Raphael, and six of their friends from Pondi for a trip to Gingee Fort.

This looks like India. There are vast temples covered in intricate carvings. There are mosques with sharp arcs and memories of Islamic invaders. There are crumbling walls lining rolling hills. And, of course, there are monkeys.




Camped out on a quiet patch of soft grass, we watched them pick flowers from the perfectly trimmed gardens and dance among the crooked branches of old trees. Just when we thought they were cute and gentle, they attacked.



The picnic was perfect—delicious food and great conversation. I suppose the monkeys were jealous. With one sudden cry, they ripped plates from our hands and dashed for the food. More cried from the branches above—and soon we were showered. By monkey shit.

A giant terd splattered in the middle of my plate. Suddenly I wasn’t hungry anymore.

We decided to see the elephant bath and use the toilets. But the elephant bath was so old and dirty it smelled terrible, and the bathrooms were locked. We found bushes instead… and guess who picked a thorn bush?

Things weren’t going quite as well as I’d hoped, but spirits were still high. I sat with an Indian woman who runs miles every day, an Indian man who bikes five hours regularly, and a Frenchman who makes a point to lift weights each morning. They smiled brightly at me and made a proposal: “Catherine, you want to climb?”



I looked at the mountain. A snake of tiny steps cut its way through the forest, and people—like ants—disappeared into tiny specks as they ascended the peak. This would be a hike.



In 35 minutes, in the pique of afternoon heat, we climbed a freaking mountain. I thought I was going to die.

But the views were worth the run:




Saturday, February 14, 2009

ask me in two years

We were sitting in the dark, on dried wood and broken fences and loose bricks. The Love Circus roared on around us. (Yes, Auroville hosted a fair that was literally called the Love Circus/Cirque d’Amour; and yes, I really attended.)

I was telling her my Plan. As if I had one.

“So, after the conference at Oxford, I’ll return to Paris for the summer and do all those things.”

“And then?” she asked eagerly. “What will you do after the summer?”

I tried for a moment to picture me somewhere doing something and realized it was—as it had been on every previous attempt—completely useless. I could be anywhere: building online communities in D.C. or web gadgets in Honolulu; traveling the seven seas on a luxury yacht; waiting tables in some European café; building microfinance institutions in Africa; exploring great mysteries in Asia. I'm no longer worried. Something will happen and it will all click into place. I am on my path, I just don’t know exactly which way it curves next.

So I answered in the only honest way I knew: “Ask me in October.”

“She does that a lot,” he interrupted. “Ask me in two weeks, ask me in As months, as me in two years. Never quite the answer.”

“Au contraire,” I said with a laugh, because I knew they were teasing me. But I still had reason to object. “Ask me in two weeks or two months or two years and I will live the answer.”


I hate predictions. I hate telling people what or where I’ll be. I hate plans because they never actually happen as you envision them. So why bother? New discoveries and environments will transform my situation, needs, desires and options, and what may have once seemed like the most obvious decision will seem ridiculous when it comes time to act. When I reach the crossroads I’ll let you know if I go right or left, but I won’t know which way until I see the signs.

And, in the same vein, I realize other people are just as turbulent as me. Life is fickle. What you offer me now—job, room, etc—may not be available as time too changes your situation, needs, desires and options. Just as I can’t commit to something too far or too vague, I refuse to count on your epheral offerings—tempting as they may be.

I learned a long time ago that things change. Dramatically. Quickly.

For example: Two months ago I didn’t want to be in India and dreamed only of Paris. Today I’m thrilled to be living in Auroville and dread leaving. Two months ago I lingered in bars and cafés for too many hours. Today I attend ridiculous events with absurd names like “Love Circus.” And I enjoy it.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Finger Food Beyond Civilization

I was about to go to bed, but I figured that while still *jazzed* from a fun evening, I would at least update my Twitter status. But with what? People on Twitter want to know what life is like in India... not what my life is like. So I searched the moments du soir for the most perfectly ordinary image of the night. I thought about the people, the place, the good times, the conversations, the warm fuzziness, everything... and I kept going back to the picture of us five adults and two kids sitting on the floor eating with our fingers. This, to me, is India.

Thus I wrote: "slightly afraid I will never want to eat with silverware again"

After all, I am liking my life a lot these days.

Within seconds--literally before I had the chance to close my browser--I received an IM from a friend:
Friend (11:41pm) : why wouldn't you want to eat with silverware again

Me (11:41pm) : cuz in India you only eat with fingers
(11:41pm) : :)
(11:42pm) : It tastes better that way

(11: 44pm) : hello?


Friend (11:45pm) : please come back to civilization.

Love it.

Pink Panties vs. Chauvinistic Perceptions

On January 24, a conservative political party in India (Sri Rama Sene) attacked women in a Mangalore pub... for being in the pub. In the party's view, women are not meant to socialize and certainly not meant to be anywhere near a bar. Two of the women assaulted were hospitalized, and the attackers received little—if any—punishment.

But young men and women around India—and the world!—are fighting back. The video of the attacks is one of the most watched clips on YouTube and bloggers across the country are speaking out. I'm most impressed by the Facebook group and e-campaign, "A Consortium of Pub-going, Loose and Forward Women." Within a week, this grassroots coalition recruited over 18,000 people to participate in their advocacy work.

They are mailing pink panties to the leader of the party, organizing pub crawls around the world, and generally speaking up for women's rights.

They will deliver the underwear on Valentine's Day. The party, meanwhile, is planning another attack for Valentine's Day. And women (and men) around the world have the opportunity to show their support through online networks and beyond.

Yes, I prepared some pink panties for sending. Yes, I will toast suppressed women worldwide on Valentine’s Day. And yes, I think you should also do something about it.

Start by checking out the following links for more info:

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

10 Proofs of Adjustment

I like that when I walk into the café, the waiter immediately gets my order before I have a chance to ask for it.

I like that when people recognize me, they don’t just smile and wave and walk away—they sit and talk. For hours.

I like that when I deviate from my routine people notice and wonder why.

I like that I have so much to do I’ve started using a calendar again.

I like that I’ve become addicted to tea.

I like that there’s food in my (relatively clean) fridge.

I like that I fill hours with books and blanks pages.

I like that I laugh so much but my opinion is valued.

I like that it only takes a conversation with Mamma, a good meal and a little acknowledgement to pick me up.

I like life. A lot.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Dinner at The Dolphin

I’ve come a long way. At first, dinner with O and S seemed intimidating. The “New Age” stuff scared me. Weeks later, dinner with them is rejuvenating. Comforting.

We decided tonight to try something new. Friends of a friend were raving about this new place—The Dolphin—on Sunday, so as we passed by it on the bike, I passed along their reviews. “Excellent fish.” “Fun.” “New.”

The “new” might be the most alluring descriptive; I imagine things change very slowly here.

So we decided to try The Dolphin.

We found a table in the corner and sat, eager for delicious fish and lots of fun. Quite some time later, a young local appeared with a menu. He hardly spoke any English, but he eagerly talked about the fish. (Or tried to.) We ordered then and there a green tea—with jaguary or honey but NOT sugar—and a banana lassi.

Quite some time later, he returned to take our food order… with no tea, no lassi. We tried to order one or two things, ask some questions about two or three other items, and each time he said, “No, sorry. Not have. Next week.”

Finally, O asked, “So, what do you have?”

“Fish.”

Thank God it’s supposed to be good. “How do you prepare the fish?”

He did not understand the question, and it took a good 10 minutes to communicate what we were trying to understand. “Ah, grilled.”

“Only grilled?”

“Fried. Grilled.”

“Fried or grilled?”

“Yes. Fried. Grilled.”

“So we don’t need the menu, huh?”

“Fish. Fried. Grilled.”

Alas, we ordered grilled fish. And re-ordered the tea, and the lassi.

Some 45 minutes and several inquiries later, the waiter appeared with a beautiful English-styled teacup and pot in his hands. He proudly laid the porcelain cup in front of S… and walked away with the pot still in hand.

“Wait!” we shouted eagerly. “The tea?”

“Yes, yes. Coming.” And he proceeded to talk away.

We figured the tea was actually waiting in the kitchen.

Fifteen minutes later, he returned with the teapot, this time clearly full, and placed it beside S’s empty cup.

She graciously thanked him, and he beamed with joy.

It was black tea. With sugar.

Fifteen or twenty minutes later, the lassi arrived.

Thirty minutes later, the food arrived. Sans silverware. On bread plates.

We started with our fingers. (No biggie, it’s India, right?) But something about the salad and the smallest portion of French fries I’ve ever seen just felt funny. And the fish was terrible.

Hours after arrival, we finished our meal. At least the hours were filled with exciting conversation and dreams. And as we were wrapping up a bizarre evening, something caught my eye.

It was huge. Black. Quick.

It was only in my peripheral vision, so I proceeded as if it didn’t exist. I might be going crazy, after all, and didn’t want to make a fuss. Plus, I figured it was a gecko or lizard or something.

The sight interrupted my sentence for only a moment—but S caught onto that moment and interrupted me as I continued.

“Yea, I saw that too.”

“What was it?”

I described what I thought I saw, and she described what she thought she saw.

“Ah,” O said casually. “It was a rat.” Scuttering behind us. Inches from our food.

Lovely.


I can’t say the dinner was a disappointment. But it sure as hell was surreal.

Monday, February 9, 2009

A thought on Auroville

I drink the Kool-Aid way too easily.

I say I won’t. I say I’m immune to the alluring side of controversial communities, but each time I’m engrossed in one, I fall victim and become a passionate advocate. In the most depressing months of my last job, I was its biggest cheerleader. In some of the toughest days at school, I saw what the program could and should be. And even when this place kills me, I realize it’s magical.

Auroville is an interesting place. Complex. Confusing. The people here are quite the same. They are hard and simple at the same time. They are friendly and closed. Both people and place embody spirituality and goodness but thrive on capitalism and deceit. But I’ve become a fan. I’ve fallen victim to its charm.

Both here an in the other somewhat off-putting communities for which I rallied, I recognize the potential. I see what it could be instead of what it is right now. There is so much energy and possibility and hope and good people that Auroville really will become the City the Earth Needs when the young leaders cut the shit and do something. Until they do, this place risks becoming just like any other small community thriving off of the businesses and products they sell, even if those businesses and products are “holistic” or “alternative.”

This is why its fun to be a part of something small but growing: You get to partake in its construction. You get to play the part of idealist or optimist and work towards a dream that may never happen. But you know it could happen, and that’s why you continue to fight. 

This is a city of warriors, and that’s why I love it. It’s a breeding ground for social entrepreneurs, and they are my passion. It’s also a Petri dish for testing ideas that could affect the rest of the world, and that’s why you should care. And it’s going to be something incredible, and that’s why the next generation of Auroville is so important.

In these types of places, every day is an adventure. And who doesn't love that?

Friday, February 6, 2009

Whispers of the Past

It was exactly how these evenings should be.

A trash-filled street. A dingy, narrow staircase. An open door. An Old Man and The Future, eager to hear the past.

We entered the apartment and settled into a couch along the back wall. My eyes slowly scanned the room, soaking in each decoration praising an Indian god. They were beautiful, mysterious. The books were all in pursuit of Sri Aurobindo. I wondered what lay inside.

He had official business to discuss with his grandson, but tonight was not the night. The question emerged: “How did you leave Pakistan?”

The old man smiled and sighed. He was survivor. He had stories to tell. The two of us clung to the edge of the couch for the next two hours witnessing an incredible adventure unfold.

If only it were my story to tell! Here was a man at 15 who boldly took a train to watch India gain its independence. While on the train shit hit the fan, and he found his life in danger; wild, hate-filled Muslim mobs stormed the cars in pursuit of Hindus, ready to kill and ravage.

Imagine: a boy standing in the train car amongst strangers. Blood-thirsty civilians rip people from the train and murder them before an audience of men, women and children. Blood is everywhere. Injured bodies cling to the bunks. The murderers come for him and his friend, and they hide behind the one Muslim prayer and scattered words they know. Having come from the North, their dress helps their guise.

The murderers look them up and down, unsure of where to place the maybe-Hindu boys. “We’ll come back for them!” shouts one, and they rush to satisfy their lust for blood in the next cart. The boys hide amongst the dead and the bloody.

But the murderers have not forgotten them. Some time later—minutes, hours… does it matter? It must have felt like long, painful days for the youth—they returned, guns in hand, ready to kill. “Where are they?!”

After a brief search, one of the mob put a hand on the leader’s shoulder and sighed: “Maybe we’ve had enough for one day.”

The boys were spared.

Until they neared Delhi, and the Hindu mobs emerged to kill all the Muslims. The same scene of scattered blood, guts, betrayal and rage beyond control. Imagine the fear in the youth; having just passed as Muslims, could they now prove they were in fact Hindu?

Thankfully circumcision says it all.

So the boys made it to Delhi. They had no way to talk to their families, no way to tell them they were ok. They watched India gain independence amongst a fiery backdrop, red with blood. They survived.

His reunification with his family was an equally exciting story. He breezed over the life in Bombay during which he supported everyone with odd jobs and adventure. He told us how opportunity appeared on the doorstep while he was sawing a piece of iron and whisked him away to England, where he received training and met his wife.

Then back to India. He talked about discovering the Ashram in Pondicherry and falling so in love with Auroville he wanted to help build it. He became an ambassador of sorts and spoke of his political pursuits around spiritual India. He talked about incredibly moving meetings with the mother. His words were captivating, and we sat on the couch engrossed as if watching an adventure film.

At one point, as he recounted his last request to the Mother to join Auroville, his frail body moved to the bookcase and stiffly crouched to reach a worn text in the back corner of the bottom shelf. “This is what she gave me,” he said, unfolding the pages to show us a faded flower pressed within. “I didn’t understand.”

“What is it?”

“Acceptance.”

And here he is.

I’m not doing his words justice. I can’t this late at night, filled with this excitement and energy. But it makes me realize how amazing that generation was, and how spoiled we are. At 15 I wasn’t facing scenes of mass murder and upheaval; I was flirting with boys and figuring out how to entertain myself in the safest hometown imaginable. I was sheltered and protected. He was surviving. Thriving. Building.

And they all were. I think of my ancestors in France and their stories of WWII. Face-to-face with death, they were clever enough to survive and save. After the war, they were builders.

This old man looked at his grandson and saw a builder. “Our time is over,” he said of his generation. “It’s up to you guys to keep the dream of Auroville happening.”

They will. The Past is filled with amazing adventure stories of survival; the Future will be filled with equally amazing people overcoming different kinds of obstacles. I have no doubt.

They promised to talk business next time.

Next time.

Another opportunity for an old man to spend cherished time with a grandson. I thought of Anthony Ferris in Broken Wings, when he writes of how eager the young man was to hear the old man stories… not for the stories, but for the old man.
“An old man likes to return in memory to the days of his youth like a stranger who longs to go back to his own country. He delights to tell stories of the past like a poet who takes pleasure in reciting his best poem. He lives spiritually in the past because the present passes swiftly, and the future seems to him an approach to the oblivion of the grave.”

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Lesson/Theme du Jour

I've noticed that in India, everything happens in themes. Seemingly unconnected people from various places all say the same thing. It's like the world is shouting a lesson for you to learn.

For example, a few days ago the theme was unavoidably "synchronosity": everyone was talking about it everyone. Today's lesson was that nobody else matters.

It sounds harsher than it is... But I had three entirely separate conversations about living happily alone. Live like you want. The rest can either enjoy the ride or f--- off. They don't matter, if you can be happy alone with yourself.


Will try to report daily lessons more often...

Monday, February 2, 2009

In Search of Beach

Family is my foundation. My rock. Wherever I am I crave the community of blood and/or marriage that accepts and enables me. I like safety and support. (Who doesn’t?)

So it was with great pleasure that I saw French family the day after their arrival in Pondi. We laughed about the absurdity of meeting here; we recounted the past two months in Paris and Auroville. (For the third time someone told me I looked Kashmiri…) They invited me to Monday lunch at their friends’ hotel outside town, and I gleefully accepted.

Monday morning arrived full of angst and I knew I needed to drive. I didn’t know quite how far the Kalaish Beach Resort was.

I buzzed down the ECR and immediately felt better. I weaved my way through Pondi and saw neighborhoods I’d never seen before. I continued along the general directions I was given, and I left Pondi behind.

I kept driving. And driving. And driving.

It seemed like I’d been in the sun forever, and the lunch hour was quickly approaching. Where was this damn hotel? I saw a beautiful church and a large school, and finally—FINALLY—I caved to ask for directions.

I first approached a colorfully dressed woman standing idly on the corner.

“Vanakam.”

But she just stared at me.

“Um, Kaliash Hotel?”

And she continued to stare.

“Is this Pondicherry?”

She didn’t move. Her eyes didn’t even acknowledge my words.

I tried several different pronunciations of the hotel and the city, but nothing moved her. So I moved on.

An old man and young woman sat outside of a shop, so I asked them. Neither spoke English, and the name of the hotel didn’t seem to resonate.

I finally asked two boys walking a cycle along the sidewalk. They too offered no enlightenment.

I was running out of options. Time to make my life line call.

But he wasn’t helpful either. Instead, as I explained my location, he said: “That’s a bit far to go by moped, Catherine.”

It was a tone I’d never heard before. It was my name, which I also rarely hear. And suddenly I felt like a child being scolded for doing something stupid. I looked around at the dirty, crowded, poverty-filled streets and noticed I was the only Westerner, I was alone on my bike with purse and laptop, and I was—in fact—being stupid.

I’ve long said the line between bravery and stupidity is fine. I hover over it all the time.

I was forced to back track but refused to give up. Look how far I’d come! Fine, no one will help me. Fine, no one supports me. Fine, I’ll do it myself. I’ll find family, and I’ll have a damn good time with them.

And then I saw the men in business suits. “Kaliash Hotel?”

They drew me a map, even though they didn’t speak English.

With that map, I found an oasis some 8km away. With that map, I found family.










Sunday, February 1, 2009

A Night of Fashion &... Fun?

All I wanted was a night out. A night full of people and friends and laughter and drunken embraces. But this is Auroville, India, meaning: there aren’t many people, “friends” already built their cliques and aren’t too receptive to outsiders, and alcohol is hard to come by. I’d settle for an evening laughing, though. Even with dry strangers who didn’t really know or care aboue me.

So I was thrilled to receive an invitation to a fashion show by one of the chicest, funnest designers in town, followed by a booze-filled dance fest in Pondi. Alas, the social scene I’ve been craving! I strapped on my fancy high heels and carefully dressed in a beautiful, brand-new white shirt. I even put on make up. (Oh my!)

Of course, as with everything else, these adventures always turn out differently than anticipated… especially if you don’t know where you’re going.

It was the hour of the day when driving the scooter means you are sure to eat at least six bugs, and twice as many will find their way into your eyeballs. It’s the time when evening begins to settle over Auroville, sucking away the day’s heat and replacing it with a moist cold that chills the skin and startles the lungs. And I forgot to bring something warm.

I was clearly distracted as I scooted around the outskirts of the City the Earth Needs. After a half hour, I realized I could no longer blame it on bugs or cold—I was lost.

I thought long and hard about the poor directions I received earlier; I envisioned the map on the back of my eyelids. No use. So I drove up and down the main drag of Edayanchavadi until I found someone who spoke enough English to guide me.

He was a young man eager to please. Within three minutes he’d given me five different routes. All I have to say is this: A “water tank” here is not what you think it is. It’s a reservoir.

The “road” to the venue turned out to be a painfully familiar dirt path I’d traveled once before—the path that ruined my favorite pair of linen pants. Dodging the bumps and slamming on the brakes to avoid livestock, I shuddered at what this was going to look like when darkness took over. “Thankfully it’s not as wet as it was the last time,” I thought, recalling the red mud that took over after the rains. There were puddles everywhere, including one so large we had to dismount and walk the bike through it. I shuddered at the thought.

Then, last night, I approached the same puddle.

I stopped the bike and hung over the handlebars defeated. There it was. In front of me. A nemesis. A giant, red, muddy, wet mess I had to pass if I ever wanted to have fun again. (Or so it felt.)

The car behind me beeped. The locals from the other side passed through with ease. I crinkled my toes in my heels and patted the wrinkles from my white shirt. “Why,” dare I ask, “is everything so hard these days?”

Alas, I’m a warrior. I drove to Pondi, I can drive everywhere. I’ve already fallen into mud puddles, and I laughed about it. “JUST DO IT.”

So I did. Slowly, carefully. One beautifully heeled foot sunken into mud. A couple spatters of water on the freshly cleaned pants. But I crossed—mostly clean.

And then a cow ran into me.

I didn’t fall, but I didn’t make it to the venue feeling quite as pretty as I did when I left. Looking around the chaotic parking lot, I also noticed they were all locals. And there were more horses than clothes.

I wandered the compound for an hour. It was a horse show. The strangest thing I’ve ever seen. Young women on giant, emaciated white beasts moving around while crackled music blared through broken speakers. Where was my fashion show?!

A new light invited me to the back corner of the compound, where a hundred empty plastic chairs faced a low stage. I took my seat and lost myself in my notebook for a few minutes. By the time I looked up I realized I’d arrived just in time; suddenly all the chairs were full and I was completely surrounded. By drunk Tamil men.

Thus began the show. A remarkably attractive Australian(?) emcee. A surprisingly impressive mime. A sexy-as-hell salsa performance. And a theatrics of modeling that can only be described as fun.

Never before have I see such a thing. But it was fun, and I laughed the whole time. I laughed, surrounded by people I didn’t know, on the periphery of a desirable social clique, with the sweet smell of alcohol in my nostrils.

As anticipated, right?